Port Ellen closed in 1983, making this 1980 vintage exceptionally rare. Gordon & MacPhail, founded in 1895 and called 'the father of single malt' by whisky writer Charles MacLean, launched the Connoisseurs Choice range in 1968. This Heritage Collection is a five-bottle selection of exceptionally old whiskies from defunct distilleries—a tribute to craftsmanship and heritage.

This 45-year-old Port Ellen was matured in refill American oak hogshead and bottled at 57.6% ABV. It reveals a sharper, more mineral side of Port Ellen: graphite and cement dominate the nose, with hints of petrol and garden herbs, backed by toasted oak. On the palate, power emerges—brine, grapefruit and lemon, seaweed and peppercorns, with a vibrant mix of citrus and herbs, plain salt and green olives. A moderate phenolic note and faint antiseptic edges add depth.

The finish is long and complete, with herbs, subtle smoke and coastal intensity. Despite its age, this 1980 feels surprisingly youthful and forceful—the coastal power takes away some of the waxy roundness typically prized in Port Ellen, yet this rarity makes it a remarkable opportunity to experience Port Ellen at such an age.